Michelin - MICHELIN GUIDES: Sustainable gastronomy takes the spotlight

One year ago, the MICHELIN Guide, now present in over 30 destinations, introduced the MICHELIN Green Star. This distinction has already been awarded to over 200 environmentally-friendly restaurants committed to sustainable gastronomy. The Guide presents a selection of addresses curated by the Guide's inspectors after extensive fieldwork and in-depth research into sustainable and virtuous initiatives.

Questions to Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the MICHELIN Guides

Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the MICHELIN Guides - © F. Aceto

Where does the idea of the MICHELIN Green Star come from?

A year ago, we introduced a new award designed to promote restaurants with a distinctively eco-friendly approach. These establishments were keen to revive our forebears' skills and expertise, while adding their own lively creative touch and a committed spirit of innovation, to offer gourmet diners gastronomic experiences that are more virtuous and more sustainable. It was unthinkable for our inspectors not to be touched by these bold and earnest initiatives. They bring a breath of hope that we can protect our environment, our distinctive regional identities and our biodiversity. They nurture a philosophy of more responsible food consumption among the general public. This is why the MICHELIN Guide, which is mindful of these environmental and social issues, decided to support consumers and the restaurant sector by creating and rolling out the MICHELIN Green Star.

What is the methodology underpinning this new distinction?

Our distinctions for fine food - the Assiette MICHELIN, the Bib Gourmand and the MICHELIN Stars - follow a long-standing methodology that has been tried and tested for over a century. Our inspectors accordingly expanded their methodology to take into account sustainable initiatives throughout the restaurant ecosystem: from its sourcing methods to the characteristics of its products, including the consistency of its menus, its overall operation and its waste management. We are not a scientific label and we make no claim to be experts on such fundamental societal issues. We hope that, through this initiative, we will play a positive role in showcasing those who, on a daily basis, raise awareness among not only the industry and their customers but also the population in general.

One year down the road, how successful do you think this new emblem has been?

In the space of a year, this emblem has earned a place for itself in the MICHELIN Guide universe: our community of gourmets chose its name and our teams worked on drawing up an appropriate, all-encompassing methodology. In the space of a year, the entire restaurant sector has adopted the Green Star, through chefs and teams who are proud to see their distinctive, environmentally-aware vision rewarded in our selections. The Green Star has already gradually gained an international following in Europe, the United States and Asia, and we are optimistic that we will be able to feature a selection of sustainable restaurants in all of our destinations by January 2022. We will pour all of the necessary energy and resources into securing its development because we believe the MICHELIN Green Star distinction is just as important as our legacy MICHELIN Star for quality cuisine.

Sustainable gastronomy through the eyes of the chefs

A guide like the MICHELIN Guide must spotlight the sort of cuisine that is in harmony with nature and the seasons. It was a real pleasure for me - a gift from heaven, even - to know that an institution such as the MICHELIN Guide was embarking on this adventure.

A. PASSARD, chef of "The Arpège" restaurant (Paris)

There comes a time when you realize that you're part of a place and that you have to live with it, not against it. It's not some lightbulb moment: more like an immersion. You end up being at one with your surroundings: in my case, the land and the sea. We need to live in symbiosis with them and get into step with their rhythm. And this harmony can be seen in the plate, without trying to go against what nature gives us at any given time.

H. Bourdon, chef at the restaurant "Le Petit Hôtel du Grand Large" (Saint-Pierre-Quiberon)

We can no longer feed someone with just whatever comes to hand, with no regard for the land, the seasons or people. Once we know why we are feeding someone, we need to understand how. This means going back to the origin of the product we're going to cook, understanding the ecosystem in which it was produced, then learning to listen to the person who produced it and the way that person works to achieve that product, whether animal or plant. Once we've understood that, all we have to do is decide how we are going to prepare it to make the person who is going to taste it happy.

N. Sammut, chef at the restaurant "Auberge la Fenière" (Cadenet)